BRITISH  PATENT  1.074 - 1857

1.074  Thomas Sugden and Frederick Sugden, of Oldham, in the County of Lancaster, Machinists and Tool Makers, for an invention for improvements in sewing machines. This invention relates to those sewing machines which form the chain stitch. Instead of employing a partially circular or straight needle for the under thread, the patentees employ a bent needle somewhat resembling the letter L, having an oscillating or to and fro motion imparted to it, either transversely or parallel with the advance of the work. The said needle consists of two parts, one resembling the other with the exception of the eye which is only in one of the parts. The said needle is placed upon a shaft, the part with the eye being fixed and the other fitting so that it may slide to and fro in order that the parts of the needle may be alternately close to each other or slightly open. At each stroke of the machine when a stitch is being made, the under needle enters the loop formed by the thread of the upper needle. The sliding half or part of the under needle then moves out, opening the loop of the upper needle and also the loop of the under needle, carrying the under thread round the vertical needle, which, as it moves downwards forms the stitch. The sliding motion is given to the moveable half of the under needle by means or a cam on the driving shaft of tho machine. They have an improved feeding motion, consisting of a beam or lever vibrating on a pin and placed under the upper plate of the machine, one end of the lever being actuated by a cam on the driving shaft and its other end connected to the feeding plate. Below the plate of the frame at or about the position of the loop of the vertical needle they attach a spring, with a rounded front, against which the vertical needle presses as it moves downwards, so that the loop may always be placed in such a position that the under needle enters it with certainty. They also apply to circular needle machines an improved arrangement for giving the vertical needle a lateral or forward and backward motion, the needle bar being fixed on a movable slide, having motion given to it by means of a lever and cam. The under or circular needle has at the same time a corresponding  movement, so as to enter the loop formed by the vertical needle at whatever position it may be. Letters Patent sealed.

April 16, 1857